Arasbaran

Arasbaran forests as one of the 9 biosphere reserves of Iran are one of the most beautiful forests in Iran, which are located in the mountains of Qaradagh and a few kilometers from the Aras deep in the fog. Arasbaran forests are located in the northwest of Iran and the north of East Azerbaijan province, with an area of ​​164,000 hectares at an altitude of 290 to 2890 meters above sea level. Arasbaran Forests cover Ahar, Kaleybar, Varzaqan, and Jolfa cities. The beauty of Arasbaran is not limited by time and you can travel there in any season.
A collection of natural wonders, green foggy valleys, rivers, cliffs, pastures, etc are gathered together in this area. Along the holy Sabalan, it has adorned the northwest of Iran in a magnificent, mysterious, attractive, and unique way. Arasbaran is where the tributaries of small rivers flow into the Aras river, and this may define the name of the forest better. In the local language, this region is also known as Qaredagh (Black Mountain).

The average rainfall in Arasbaran forests is about 300 to 500 mm. The amount of rain in the region doesn’t match with the conditions of the forest. The point is that the droplets floating in a fog, have a noticeable effect on water balance and storing it in the soil, the extent and diversity of plant species in Arasbaran. The average annual temperature varies from low altitudes to high mountains and is between 5 and 17 degrees Celsius. The climate of the region is humid, semi-humid, and cold.

Arasbaran forests have the most various biodiversity. In terms of appearance, they are divided into two groups: broad-leaved and conifers mixed forests, and broad-leaved forests; and its southern parts mostly are grasslands. There you can see trees and plants such as raspberry, blueberry bushes, oak, keykam, crane, Barberry, wild pomegranate, wild apple, and its local fruit such Redcurrant, plums, hazelnuts and more than a few types of mushrooms.

Among the animal species of Arasbaran forests, large mammals such as wild goat, brown bear, wild cat, leopard, Caspian red deer; and among birds, Caucasian grouse, and gold eagle are the most valuable and unique species of this area. All these varieties of animals in Arasbaran forests, make them the treasury of animal species in the country. 

In East Azerbaijan, due to its geographical position, there are many springs with healing benefits which many of them have become large hydrotherapy complexes like Jolfa mineral spring, Abres, Allah Haq, Asbfrooshan, Ardehal, Hammam, Qaleh Kennedy, and Abesh Ahmad, Tap Tapan, Ghazi Bolaghe, Soraya, Sufi springs, and most important one Kandovan mineral spring. There are two waterfalls in Arasbaran region: Eyshabad waterfall with a height of about 15 meters in a village with the same name; and the ruined mill waterfall in Jolfa, which takes its name from the watermill that used to work with this waterfall, which now only wreckage of this mill remains and It is known as the ruined mill. Arasbaran Lake and Ghori Gol Lake, are suitable places for migratory birds to rest and spend the winter. The most important rivers of this region that flow into the Aras river are Kaleybar, Ilgene, Hajilar, and Ahar river.

Late spring and summer when the nomads are migrating is the best time for traveling to Arasbaran forests. To reach Arasbaran forests, you can start from Tabriz and then go to Ahar city and eventually to Kaleybar city (Babak Khorramdin base). From Babak Fort, which is located in the heights of Kalybar, the hiking trail begins. To get from Kalybar to Babak Fort, you can use a personal car or public transportation of Kaleybar, although a part of the route is on foot. From Babak Fort, after passing the village of Aughuyeh, you reach the Makidi village and its beautiful valley, where there has been set up a camp for travelers. After Makidi, you’ll reach oskelu village, then you will drive through a dirt road, and after a few miles, we reach the valley of Aynalo, where it is the habitat of red deers. To reach the tourist camp of Aynalo, you should go to the Aynalo village itself. There are 15 kilometers left from Aynalo to Asheqlu village and Aras river.

Arasbaran is one of the scenic green forests of Iran. You can read the description of its beauty in the poetry of Shahriar (Heydar Baba Salam) or travelogues and memoirs of foreign or domestic travelers. Where it says, it is a place as freshness and greenery as England and beyond our imaginations of the desert and dry nature of Iran. Arasbaran does not have just enjoyable nature; but also, its history is as fascinating as the attractive nature. Hundred-year-old churches, castles and historical cemeteries, Babak Fort, Tumanians Castle, the monastery of  Saint Stepanos, Khodaafarin Bridge, and the ruined mill waterfall, Vayqan Cave, etc; are all proof of history in Arasbaran.

You can find traces of nomads in the beautiful summers in Arasbaran. You can enjoy eating yogurt soup, fresh bread, besides hearing Ashiqs (tribal musicians) playing Tar (traditional music instrument). The most important thing about these local people is their original dialect and sweet Azeri accent. The peak of the culture among local people of this region is the love songs. The love songs come from itinerant singers, which they are called Ashiq, who used to play Komuz (an eight-string instrument in the shape of tar) and sing in rejoicing occasions.

In this area, Ashiqs are inspired by emotions related to the migration of Arasbaran nomads for composing their songs. The Pomegranate and Blueberry Festival, which are held in late October, is much more fun along with spectacular love songs. Most of the people in the area are occupied with beekeeping, gardening, and producing handicrafts. The trendiest handicrafts that people produce through the art of carpet weaving, is Verni which is a kind of one-side drugget without any lint.

To stay in this area, you can use the arbors that were set up in the forest for travelers. The nomadic arbors of the Kaleybar region will make you a great memory or you can enjoy spending the night in the forest by camping in specified spots that are provided for travelers. Babak camp near Babak Fort in Shoja’ Abad village, Darreh Si castle, Makidi Darreh Si and Aynalo in Kaleybar, and Chichakloo in Varzeqan.

Going to the forest is not easy and requires expertise and precise navigation, and since the Arasbaran forest is large and some parts of it are uninhabited, that’s better to get a hand from local guides or exact navigators. Asking local guides for help would be the best option.

The most important damages that threaten Arasbaran forests, and environmental activists and foresters are worried about are unsustainable developing activities, unlimited minings, particulates, effluents, and chemicals produced from extracting ferrous metals, gold, and copper, which will destroy these forests. Land grabbing and the lack of resorts for tourists are other problems that require a lot of investment and attention. And the other most important threat is the increase in the number of poachers and light hunting weapons that threaten the wildlife of the region.