Hyrcanian forests

Hyrcanian forests are stretched from Golestan province in Iran to Azerbaijan country close to the Caspian Sea. Azerbaijan has 20.000 hectares of Hyrcanian forest which is a small share in comparison to 2 million hectares of it in Iran. Azerbaijan tried to register Hyrcanian forests to its own country in 2006; however, it was not successful according to its small share against Iran. Later, Azerbaijan decided to register these forests in joint ownership with Iran; but because of the world register rules, Iran refused to accept it. Eventually, Iran succeeded to register Hyrcanian forests individually and all to its own in July 2019.

Hyrcanian forests have an area of 9.1 million hectares with 800 km length and 20 to 70 km width from Astara county in the north of Gilan province to Golidagh district in the east of Golestan province.

Since Hyrcanian forests are about 40 million years old, they’re well-known as the father of the woods in the earth and are one of the most valuable jungles in the world.

Hyrcanian forests are aged a hundred times older than European woods. It is incredible that these forests, unlike the other jungles, could survive the Ice age and. In the era in which Siberia and Europe were out of living life, Hyrcanian forests were the habitat of animals; and because of that, Hyrcanian forests are also known as living fossils. These forests have lived through tough conditions and have seen a long history and they’re still standing and stunning in Iran, you see?

The name of Hyrcanian forests dates back to Achaemenid Empire. “Hyrcan” is derived from “Verkan” which was the name of a region including present Gorgan and some parts of Mazandaran province. In European passages, the region was mentioned as “Hyrcan” and so it got common.

Generally, 5 major types of climate have been identified in the Hyrcan heaven including very humid, humid, semi-humid, Mediterranean, and dry. Each type divides into several sub-climates based on some factors like the Density of trees, the direction of the steepness, the distance between the woods and the Caspian Sea, and so on. The various sub-climates make the forests second-to-none and unique. All of these beauties need to be maintained and it is our responsibility to take care of them.

The importance of Hyrcanian forests with a huge number of various plant species, which only can be found in these forests, aside from the mass of trees stretched from Fuman to Astara county like Talesh woods, makes them the most strategic jungle of the world.

There are currently 150 species of local trees and shrubs. Trees of Hyrcanian forests include Junipers, Oaks, European hornbeams, Alders, Beech trees, Sacred figs, common figs, Maples, Elms, European ashes, Sweet Cherries, Checker trees, English Yews, Lindens, Boxwoods, Caucasian Wingnuts, Gleditsias, Date plums, and Zelkovas.

Different kinds of shrubbery in these woods are Medlars, Hawthorns, the Cornelian cherries, Mirabelle plums, Pomegranates, Cherry laurels, Hollies, Ruscus, Wild apples, and so on.

Moderated weather and broad-leaved trees aside from valuable food resources, made the Hyrcanian forests a great crucial and safe habitation for animals mostly like birds and mammals. Hyrcanian forests of Iran are the main resting place for migratory birds immigrating from Siberia to Africa. 

The birds’ species are Passerines, Starlings, Woodpeckers, the Northern Shovelers (which are the guests of Hyrcanian jungles in fall), Caspian Pheasants (endangered species), the Swallows, Eurasian Hoopoes, Eurasian Nightjars, Kingfishers, the Rollers, Pallas’s leaf warblers, Cuckoos, the Chickadees, Partridges, Quails, common wood Pigeons, Hawks, Eurasian Sparrowhawks, Falcons, Griffon Vultures, Eagles, owls, and Marbled ducks (Mallards or Gadwalls).

Hyrcanian forests were habitats for its lions and tigers; although it still is a habitat for Hyrcanian leopards that you can still hear them roaring.

Red deers, Roe deers, Wild goats, Wolves, Wild boars, Brown bear, Corsac foxes (which are especially living in Hyrcanian forests), Jackals, Martens, Hedgehogs, Porcupines, Rabbits, Wood mice, Badgers, and Wild Cats are just some of 98 mammal species which are living in Hyrcanian forests.

The wideness of Hyrcanian forests and moderated weather are a sign of rivers and lots of springs in the woods.

Golestan national park has several rivers like Madar-Su, Zav, Ghartu, and several springs like Golshan, Golestan, Janoo, Sardar-Khane, Dushan, Agh-Su, Karkuli, and 21 other springs that have been identified in the park.

From the natural attractions of Golestan national park, there are some cascading waterfalls like Ocher, Agh-Su, and Lowe waterfall. Staying one night at Agh-Su and Lowe waterfall will give you a memorable experience you won’t forget. 

In Abr forest, which is one of Hyrcanian forests in Semnan province, there are two famous waterfalls called Sher Sher and Alu-Chal. Expert climbers have the chance to see Sher Sher waterfall, but reaching Alu-Chal waterfall needs 64km of hiking through the woods. Alu-Chal waterfall has consisted of two waterfalls that join together. Alu-Chal has 25m heights. If you want to get there, you need to pass along a scenic view called Dalan-e Behesht (Heaven corridor). Abr jungle has two magnificent springs called Torsh and Qatari which are great places for camping. 

In Nahar Khoran park in Gorgan province, you can also find Sefid Cheshme spring and Ziarat river.

In Mazandaran province, there is a full-moss cascading waterfall called Bula (also known as Oben) which is one of the most breath-taking waterfalls in Mazandaran province, and other beauties around it, make it double. Oben in local language means “under-water” which makes sense with the form of the waterfall.

Palang-Dare waterfall in Shirgah region of Mazandaran province, Gasht-e Rudkhan twin waterfall in Fuman, Div Cheshme in Kojur, Si-Sangan river, Khotbe-Sara river, Lisar river, and other water sources in the heart of ancient Hyrcanian forests, are other unbelievable attractions that you can enjoy deep in the woods.

The rich Hyracanian forests are a combination of nature and culture. The art is latent in the heart of nature and belongs to the artist who extracts it from that natural environment.

Talesh tribe in Gilan province, Torkaman migratory nomads, Shahsavan nomads in Arasbaran, and other locals or residents in villages and towns, have learned the arts perfectly from Hyrcanian nature. They sprout with spring, yield in summer, experience liberation in fall, and calm down in winter.

Local people's lives depend on livestock and pastures. Mothers have a major responsibility in families. They make traditional ovens with dark soils, bake bread with white flour in them, milk the sheep, and produce butter, yogurt, whey, etc.

Sitting next to the traditional oven and eating fresh warm pieces of bread, taking cattle to the pastures, and milking the sheep is only a part of unique experiences you can have along with nomads' lives which makes your travel much more enjoyable and exciting in Hyrcanian forests.

There are several options for visiting Hyrcanian forests in different cities. You can start from Mazandaran, and continue to Gilan, Gorgan, and even Tabriz. There are some lodges available for staying at night. If you’re looking for more facilities, hotels and hostels are proper choices. Also, you can find guesthouses or villas for rent if you take a quick scan in the city. But people who are looking for adventure can choose eco-lodges, shacks, and hovels. Achievements of staying at these shacks would be exciting and enjoyable memories that travelers will have among local people. You can try camping in nature too.

If you want to go through the woods alone, you’re going to take a huge risk, even if you have a GPS. Because in some spots in the forests, your GPS won’t work and you should be lucky to find a route that leads to a known place. Remember to travel in a group to the forests. Stay with others and avoid being alone while you are hiking in the jungles.

Hyrcanian forests are dealing with several threats.

• Building Shafarud Dam
• Considering some parts of Hyrcanian forests endowed
• Licensed cut-downs in Imamzadeh Shafi area, Shanderman district
• Raise in breeding activities and amount of livestock due to high demands for meat products
• Cutting down trees and turning them into pastures
• Environmental pests 

Hyrcanian forests are also called fossil jungles since only fossils of these forests are remaining from the Dinosaurs era in Europe. If we still have these living nature and still these ancient forests have roots in our lands, it means that Hyrcanian forests have crucial importance and that’s why these forests are on the protected areas list. These protected forests are:

• Golestan national park
• Dodungeh and Chahardunheh Wildlife habitat of in Sari county of Mazandaran,
• Central Alborz protected area
• Miankaleh peninsula in the north of Behshahr in Mazandaran, 
• Dasht-e Naaz wildlife habitat of in northeast of Sari in Mazandaran, 
• Siah Kashim protected area in the west of Anzali lagoon of Gilan
• Jahan Nama protected area in the southeast of Kordkuy in Golestan
• Lisar protected area of Talesh in Gilan
• Semeskandeh wildlife habitat of in Sari, Mazandaran
• Selke wildlife habitat in Some Sara, Gilan