Sabalan

Sabalan is an inactive Volcano in the form of a cone and mostly covered with ice and snow during the year besides there are more many hot and cold mineral springs that are the highlights of the region.

Mount Sabalan is the highest mountain throughout the West and East Azerbaijan province. The huge and volcanic mount Sabalan which is called Savalan in Azeri, included high mountains like Sain, Narmiq, Qusheh Daq, etc. The mountain slopes from its Central part is dominant to Meshginshahr and Ahar cities from north, Tabriz from west, Sarab from south and Ardabil from East side.

The special feature about Sabalan mountain is the crater lake on the top. The lake is surrounded with ice and snow the whole year (except summer). Name of the main peak or the crater is Sultan Savalan which is one of the important permanent catchment areas of the Azerbsijan rivers. The northern slopes connect to Qarahsu and Ahar Chay rivers, the southern slopes connect to the tributaries of Aji Chay river.

Sabalan supplies a great deal of Aras river water and Urmia lake. There are plenty of hot and cold mineral springs like Moin Sui, Qabil, Qotursuyi etc. which are used by Meshginshahr dwellers and tourists in four seasons of the year.

Savalan is noted for tourists due to having natural hot sprins, Shahsavan nomads, rivers, permanent glaciers, beautiful nature, ski resorts and Hazel forest.

According to the stories, Sabalan was the worship place of the ancient Persian prophet, Zoroaster and the battlefield of Babak Khorramdin who was a great Iranian revolutionary leader. On the west flank of Sultan peak beside the shelter, there is an eagle shaped stone which gradually symbolized mount Sabalan. Through the ascent route from eastern ridge (the shelter) there have seen different shapes of stones. There are many hot springs and mineral springs in the Sarein region which originated from Sarein’s fault. This special feature has made this region as one of important mineral and hot spring spas in the Middle East. Sarein hosts millions of domestic and foreign tourists every year. Sarein spa complex is absolutely the most visited geological phenomenon of Iran.

Sabalan peak and its surrounding towns have clear and sunny weather. While around this terrain, specially Qasrdaq, the humid and cloudy weather is prevailing. According to the mountain direction at east-west face, northern parts should be colder and more humid than southern parts due to the high elevation of Sabalan and proximity to the Caspian Sea. Sabalan Mountain and its suburbs have cold and humid climate. The maximum weather temperature during summer in Sabalan summit is between 15-20 centigrade degrees and the minimum weather temperature during winter is between minus 35-40 centigrade degrees; while the maximum temperature of Ardabil city which is located in northeast slopes of Sabalan is 20-25 centigrade degrees during summer. In spring season specially, in April and May Sabalan peak has stormy weather and weather condition and weather is not stable. To look for more better and stable weather condition  it is better to visit Sabalan on end of June. However, at high altitude in evenings it is often cloudy and rainy, in Autumn and winter it’s stormy with heavy snow, when snow melt on the mountain top it supplies the drinking water in Summers and ascent days but there is water shortage at lower heights. 

Ardabil terrain is an area surrounded by surface waters and groundwater which are out flow from Qarah Su River and end up in the Qeshlaqi lagoon, along with Qarah Su, the Balighlu chai River which is the most water filled River in Ardabil is originated from mount Sabalan heights and separated into 2 branches in Ardabil city, after passing by north of Ardabil inflows to the Qarah Su. 

One of important Rivers of Meshginshahr, Dasht Moqan and Ardabil is Qarah Su which confluences the Aras, that is a geographic political boundary River. Qarah Su formed where the Rivers of north western slopes meet the Rivers of north eastern slopes of Bozqoosh mountains named Haj Mohammad chai. This river receives high volume of water from Meshginshahr, Ardabil, khalkhal like Qoori Chai and Baliqli Chi rivers. Qarah Su river revolves the volcanic mountain mass and after passing by Qarah Daq conflux with the Aras from Aslanduz. Qarah Su river streams from the mountains with an extreme flood flow and makes turbulence throughout the Aras water; due to the heavy snow and continual rain, Qarah Su's river chains do not have dry spells in summers and consistently, the biggest amount of water is flowing there. The river discharge is about 64 million cubic meters on a place named Qarah Chenaq Ardabil and it 189/2 million cubic meters on Qeshlaq lagoon, the river length is 108m.

Aras is the most important and the greatest flow river in north of Iran and Azerbajan district which flows from west of Jolfa, Aslanduz, Moqan and crosses along the republic of Azerbaija-Iran border line. Aras river after passing a distance inflow to the Caspian sea. In fact, the river is fed by two distinct tributaries, one is from Armenia and the other one is from Turkey and Ararat mountains.

Baliqli Chai sourced from springs and snows of the southern slopes of mount sabalan and north west slopes of Bozqoosh mountains and pass through the Ardabil city and inflows to the Qarah Su river. The water flow rate of Baliqli Chai at the Gilandeh district is 86 million cubic meters and the secondary flow discharge in the river is 26 cubic meters per second.

Ardabil terrain is an area surrounded by surface waters and groundwater which are out flow from Qarah Su River and end up in the Qeshlaqi lagoon, along with Qarah Su, the Balighlu chai River which is the most water filled River in Ardabil is originated from mount Sabalan heights and separated into 2 branches in Ardabil city, after passing by north of Ardabil inflows to the Qarah Su. 

One of important Rivers of Meshginshahr, Dasht Moqan and Ardabil is Qarah Su which confluences the Aras, that is a geographic political boundary River. Qarah Su formed where the Rivers of north western slopes meet the Rivers of north eastern slopes of Bozqoosh mountains named Haj Mohammad chai. This river receives high volume of water from Meshginshahr, Ardabil, khalkhal like Qoori Chai and Baliqli Chi rivers. Qarah Su river revolves the volcanic mountain mass and after passing by Qarah Daq conflux with the Aras from Aslanduz. Qarah Su river streams from the mountains with an extreme flood flow and makes turbulence throughout the Aras water; due to the heavy snow and continual rain, Qarah Su's river chains do not have dry spells in summers and consistently, the biggest amount of water is flowing there. The river discharge is about 64 million cubic meters on a place named Qarah Chenaq Ardabil and it 189/2 million cubic meters on Qeshlaq lagoon, the river length is 108m.

Aras is the most important and the greatest flow river in north of Iran and Azerbajan district which flows from west of Jolfa, Aslanduz, Moqan and crosses along the republic of Azerbaija-Iran border line. Aras river after passing a distance inflow to the Caspian sea. In fact, the river is fed by two distinct tributaries, one is from Armenia and the other one is from Turkey and Ararat mountains.

Baliqli Chai sourced from springs and snows of the southern slopes of mount sabalan and north west slopes of Bozqoosh mountains and pass through the Ardabil city and inflows to the Qarah Su river. The water flow rate of Baliqli Chai at the Gilandeh district is 86 million cubic meters and the secondary flow discharge in the river is 26 cubic meters per second.

Hot water springs like Qotur Sui, Shabil, Qinarijeh, Gavmish Goli, Besh Bajialar, Sari Su (Ab Zard) and Arjestan and Viyal Darreh mineral water springs are included among the most important hot and cold water springs through this region.

Qotur Sui spring is situated 24 km from Allahrood city and 49 km from Meshginshahr. Qotur Sui water is a calcic sulfate and hot sulfur mineral water which has sulfuric acid effects. Due to comprising pure sulfur the water has therapeutic effects on dermatological disease. The spring temperature is 42 centigrade degrees and its flow discharge is 13 liters per second.

Shabil hot water spring is located 50km from Meshkinshahr and 25 km from Allahrood city. The spring is located in the slope of Savalan peak along the way of ascend. The water temperature is 49 centigrade degrees and the flow discharge is 5 liters per second.

This spring water is standing among bicarbonate acid mineral water or sodium bicarbonate and due to comprising a large amount of bicarbonic acid the water use for physiological disease and nervous system disease (foot pain, backache).

Qinarijeh Meshginshahr hot water spring is located 15 km south west of Meshginshahr county this hot spring with a temperature of 86 centigrade degrees including among the hottest mineral water springs in the world. Qinarijeh mineral spring has 3 openings, the hot water evacuation estimated 9 liters per second. Its water stands among choloride water. The water temperature is different between this spring and the adjacent spring makes an amazing vista of ice, snow and steam in winters that would astonish every visitor when facing the secrets of nature and god's power.

Gavmish Goli is one of the most important hot springs in this area. Flow rate of 85 liters per second and the water temperature is 46 centigrade degrees. This colorless spring has acid-like taste and is a little odoriferous. the water anions include carbonate, bicarbonare, choloreah, sulfate, and its cations contain calcium, Magnesium, sodium and Potassium. The water has electrical conductivity of about 1300 at 25°c and its PH is 6/58, the remaining dried material after water steam is 687 mg/L and this spring water stands among water cholorine, sodium bicarbonate and hot calcic springs. 

Besh Bajialar (panj khahar) hot spring is located in Sarein city; the spring emanates from the crack of volcanic stones as a result of Sarein fault. This hot water spring is comprised high amount of carbon dioxide. A complex was constructed above the spring with 1500 square meters of substructure, these convenient facilities made this hydrotherapy complex as a premier one throughout the country. The water that is flowing through the complex is supplied from the 5 water sources which exist inside the complex. 

Sari Su hot spring (Ab Zard) just like others Sarein hot springs, was emerged from the Sarein fault. The water temperature is 45 centigrade degrees and the water discharge is 6 liters per second, it has permanent flow of water, the spring water is a little sur with pistachio green color. This hot water provides rapeutic benefits for rheumatic, articular pains and generally it is used for soothing muscle pains. 

Arjestan and Vialdarreh mineral springs are situated along the Sarein-Vialdarreh road and the spring emergent caused by the vialdarreh fault. These springs have savory and pleasant water and stand among the gassy and cold carbonate calcium (subthermal) waters.

Generally, Sabalan ranges have 5 glaciers which 2 of them are located on the steep northern slope of mount Sultan Sabalan (Sabalan peak) which respectively from the west side are: the north old glacier and the north glacier. Two other glaciers are located on the slopes of mount Kasra Dagh which lie respectively from west to east; kasra small glacier (the minor kasra) and Kasra big glacier (the main Kasra). There is a glacier north side of the mount Heram Dagh which lies along the eastern side of Kasra big glaciers. The glaciers expand on stony holes and supply most of the surrounding water resources. 

Glacier climbing provides an opportunity for people who are interested to proceed mountain activities through wintry and cold weather during warm seasons. Most climbers tend to rock climbing and bouldering during seasons other than autumn and winter. When the cold season starts again they proceed to ice and snow climbing, however there are some climbers who have not cut off their activities on glaciers and snow and keep themselves in a state of permanent readiness for ice climbing activities. In that regard glaciers of Sabalan region with diversity and length difference have provided a suitable place for glacier climbing.

Flora

The abundant nature of this area is undeniable, identifying of 39family and 256 plant species which 6 families of them have 3900m plant dispersal distance, would certify this claim. These six plant family including: Bellflowers, compositae, Matthiola, papilionaceae, sorrel and Rose. because of plentiful green rangelands that existing through the mountain ranges, Shahsavan nomads put their animal there to graze, they migrate from Morgan plain to this region in mid-spring every year and settle there up to late summer and create a unique picture in the heart of nature.

Fauna

According to the department of environment report, 11 wildlife habitat in Sabalan district has been recorded. The protected and specified animal species such as Armanian ram and Ewe, wild goat, the caracal, leopard, brown bear, Caspian snow cock and types of hunting birds spell the region abundant in wildlife.

Great season to climb all the glaciers of Sabalan region starts in late August up to late October. Through this period the area has a summer-like weather and good ice quality on climbing routes which doesn't include seasonal changes marks, rain and short days that start in late October. 

1. Climbing from North side: to climb from North routes you should head south from Allah rood City which is located in Ardabil-Meshgin road to get the Shabil hydrothermal. Recent years with driving route construction to the shelter, this route became the main climbing route of mount Sabalan.  Shabil hydrothermal to the shelter can be traversed for half an hour by rental Landrovers and it takes 4-5 hours on foot. From this way you can choose one of the northern routes to get to the mountain peak, that is northeast route (from shelter to the peak) or the small glacier route or the north glacier route. The northeast route (Sabalan shelter) is the most common route to ascend Savalan, it's the northeast route or Sabalan shelter. The height (shelter) is almost exactly 3700m and on the other hand from the shelter route to the mountain peak is completely flat and specified and there are direction signs on most parts of the route. 

2. climbing from east side: to climb the mountain peak from eastern ridge after passing the shelter and steep Rocky slopes you will arrive at the elevation of about 4700m the total slop reduction. There is a place named "Sang Mehrab" with a gentle slope that will lead you to the caldera and it's beautiful and superb lake, right on top of Sabalan peak. 

3. climbing from south side: Alvarez ski resort is the ascent starting point from south side. Alvares ski slope 30km far from Sarein has a bituminous road. Before the ski slope, 200-300m left to the Alvares ski slope on the left side of the road you can see the nomadic gravel road which passes along the mountain ridge. On the southern route there is no lodge or shelter. Therefore, the climbing plan must be scheduled so that the group could be able to camp overnight alongside the nomad tents. The south route is the hardest route formed of big rocks.

4. Climbing form west side, Rezvan Darreh: this climbing route is really beautiful; to get to the Rezvandarreh you should pass through the Moeil that mountain village and heading the geothermal power plant road and cross the side of Goordligol. This area has the most beautiful landscape around the Sabalan. The Heram and Kasra peaks are located on the south side of the beautiful lake. To reach the Sabalan shelter you should egress the valley, and enter another valley from the south side named Ayi Yatagi which leads you to the shelter.

Mount Sabalan has registered as the first natural and cultural site. Maybe Sabalan is better known for its possessing natural heritage while this mountain mass has kept ancient heritages, heritages which dates back 6 thousand years ago before Christ. Natural features of Sabalan have been noticed in the distant past and during different historical eras, from Urartu periods to the Aryans migration and even then. In terms of courage and ability of people around this area Sabalan has acted as a stronghold. Audible stories and narrations which pass through the generations by word of mouth, indicate the fact that Savalan has experienced a vicissitude historical background along with people.  

The glory of Sabalan and its beautiful image in the people’s mind is thoroughly obvious in literature and folklore of Azerbaijan. The belief that pictured a renowned name in memories about Sabalan. based on their beliefs " Sabalan is the purest of all mountains and is one of the 7th great mountains of heaven". According to the narratives, Sabalan is the cemetery of many honorable men and prophets and based on the local belief one of these tombs is the final resting place of the prophet Zoroaster. In reference to the available evidence from several historians and authors, more than 2 thousand years ago there were prophets who ascended the mountain to worship which made Sabalan a sacred mountain. This belief made a large number of rural, tribes and nomads around the mount Sabalan ascend the peak for giving thanks to God's gifts and pilgrimage to the lake. 

There are many myths and stories about the Zoroaster and Mount Sabalan. According to available documents, Zoroaster, the prophet was born in Azerbaijan 641 thousand years B.C. (2648 years ago) and when he turned to 30 years old, he left his birthplace and left everything in his life behind and headed to mountains. In this mountain Zoroaster acquired wisdom and did not get tired of being in solitude throughout those 10years until his thoughts changed. After many years worshiping in mount Sabalan, Zoroaster traveled back to Balkh.

Also the ancient texts of Persia refer to Zoroaster worships in Sabalan. A.V. Williams Jackson the author of "Zoroaster, the prophet of ancient Iran" had written in his travelogue: “in my opinion Sabalan is the same mountain where the Zoroaster worships the god Ahura Mazda”. Ebrahim Pourdavoud (1885-1968) said the status of mount Sabalan for Zoroasterians is similar to mount Sina status for Jews, where ten commandments were revealed to Moses. There are man-made monuments from Urartu civilization like Emamzadeh, shrines, towers, castles and inscriptions‌ discovered from Sarab and Meshginshahr cities and a stone fire temple dates back to Sasanian empire in surrounding towns and villages; beliefs and traditions have remained‌ in memories of the foot hill habitants about Sabalan and its peaks‌, rocks and cliffs are included items that justifies the sanctity of mount Sabalan. 

The stories spell that one of the Sabalan holiness signs is swearing to Sabalan. swear to Sabalan also called "Sultan Savalan" is still common among Shahsavan nomads and mountain inhabitants. Sultan peak (also reputed Sabalan) is the highest Sabalan peak and most stories and fictions pertain to this peak.

The magical nature of Sabalan, created beautiful stories and myths in their literature. According to one of mythical stories, on the top of mount Sabalan, in every dawn when the sun rises you can hear a rooster crow, at the moment three springs will emerge in Safron color, creamy‌ and pure like the color of water. The first is sweeter than honey, the second is savourier than milk, the third is purer than tears which only honest men can see; it became the theme of many poems and stories.

It is quoted, in Sabalan lakeshore, prophet Solomon chained a large ruby cup. if you look carefully you will see the cup on the bottom of the lake, and if you have pure heart and strong faith the cup will come to the surface so that you can drink "the water of life". But if someone greed to seize it, the cup would drag them to the lake bottom, they will join to the immortality and eternity

Heram is another sacred summit of this region. There is a shrine on the edge of Heram summit with a light always bright. If you want to see it, you should have a pure heart. 

During the last few decades, the habitants of the foothills used to go on a pilgrimage to the mountain peak, and when they returned the relatives would have brought gifts for pilgrims, as a usual tradition. 

It is said the shepherds recommend to those who had intention to go to the mountain peak that they should be pure hearted and do not defile the lake, because they believe this mountain descended into the earth from heaven and it's one of the seven mountains of paradise.

‌Ardabil is a modern city at the foot of mount Sabalan but nomads are scattered at the mountain terrains; they have an unrivaled quality and variety in holding traditions, religious and national festivals, making organic foods and dishes, honey, butter and livestock productions. Colorful rugs and mats today adorn many cultural and residential centers in many countries throughout the world, it's a great honor and pleasure for the people of the land. Nomads and rural and town dwellers have an admirable contribution in Ardabil's handicrafts products. Carpets and kilim weaving, Jajim weaving, are included in renowned and noble arts of this area. shawl weaving, woolen socks, cushion, crocheting, saddle bag weaving, silversmithing, etching, wooden inlay work, wood and metal arts, pottery are some of unique handicrafts in this region.

Meshginshahr city due to placing in highlands and also proximity to the mountain, has pleasant cool weather in warm seasons and extremely cold weather in cold seasons. It's a small piece of paradise with beautiful nature, old history and culture. Far away in time Meshginshahr was a shelter for trade men and visitors, even farther in time there was an unknown civilization which is untouched and buried underground.

Khiav or Meshginshahr was located in the perimeter of a city called Aran. This city had a great civilization and its linguistic features with its all wonders had been stabled until the 4th century. According to the ancient discoveries this area dates back to 800 years ago (Iron age).

Handicrafts of Meshginshahr mostly include rugs on loom-frame, and the most outstanding of them including carpet, kilim and jajim weaving. Moreover, these permanent arts, pottery art is common in this city. Wooden and leather arts, varnish leather and felt carpet, medicinal herbs specially, local dairy products are memorable souvenirs of this beautiful lively region. Meshginshahr suspension bridge added on its fame during recent years.

Glaciers of Kasra Daq and Heram Daq regions contain shelters but to stand at the foot of north glaciers of Sabalan you should use the campsite and set up a tent. Kasra Daq glaciers contain a metal shelter in 30' and 45' NE (respectively the subsidiary and main glaciers) Heram Daq glaciers lie along the climbing route but it is available to stay on western shelter to reach the glacier.

Traditional houses

Dozens of traditional houses, well-appointed nomadic tents, 2-5stars modern hotel, in Sabalan region, Ardabil and the surrounding cities host the tourists.

There are no residential centers at an altitude of 3600m and more. Above this altitude the vegetation decreases, because of that nomads rarely settle at this elevation. Sabalan mountain and specially, its slope is the encounter place of Moqan Shahsavan nomads. Natural attractions including mountain, plain, valley, slope, river, waterfall, lacks that rise by snow melt. Traditions, customs, and the exclusive culture of nomads made a picture that manifold the attractions of nomads in Sabalan ranges. Combination of nature and nomad life is so pleasant and would fascinate every visitor.

The ascent route to mount Sultan Sabalan from the shelter to the peak (the lacke) is specified (numbered) with orange flags. Meanwhile, there are yellow flags that signed the crags, indicating warning and attention. Although, route is flat and determined it's always recommended to have the companionship of a familiar person to the mountain. Nevertheless, it is necessary for a better climbing condition to obtain information before travel. also it's very risky and insecure to ascend the main peaks (Kasra, Heram) without having a guide. If you have made your decision to ascend any of Dena mountain peaks or ranges and want to be relaxed and enjoy your journey; we offer you to travel with the professional guides of Discover Persia Land group (DPL). Our professional guides are the most experienced and trained mountaineers which utilize the local guides perfectly while training them the international standards of the local guides. DPL assured safety and security of the companion travelers. Our group always has tended to take part in economic growth of local communities. Click here to get acquainting with our local guides.

Sabalan is the symbol of purity and sanctity though it’s not fair it turns to the trash cemetery. The main environmental damage of this area is garbage increase and environmental view defacement being overrun by people who value the environment less. Making noise and air pollution are some of serious environmental concerns and damages in this region.

1. Existence of livestock in excess of pasture capacity.

2. Existence of the nomads and livestock in wildlife habitat.

3. Improper hunting.

4.improper road construction and plant and animal home destruction.